| EPSRC Reference: |
GR/R39450/01 |
| Title: |
Wave-Driven Vortex Dynamics and Longshore Currents on Barred Beaches |
| Principal Investigator: |
Buhler, Dr O |
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| Department: |
Mathematics and Statistics |
| Organisation: |
University of St Andrews |
| Scheme: |
Fast Stream |
| Starts: |
01 January 2002 |
Ends: |
27 August 2002 |
Value (£): |
66,084
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| EPSRC Research Topic Classifications: |
| Coastal & Waterway Engineering |
Continuum Mechanics |
| Numerical Analysis |
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| No relevance to Underpinning Sectors |
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Summary on Grant Application Form |
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The breaking of obliquely incident ocean waves on a beach gives rise to currents running in the alongshore direction. Conventional prediction schemes for these currents fail when they are applied to barred beaches, i.e. beaches on which the water depth has an interior minimum at some distance from the shoreline. Specifically, field observations consistently show a current dislocation effect, meaning that the current maximum has moved away from the region of strongest wave breaking, which is completely missed by the conventional theory. This current dislocation effect has not been explained satisfactorily to-date. Recently, a new mechanism based on vortex dynamics has been proposed in Buhler & Jacobson (2001) that is capable of explaining current dislocation, albeit only in a highly idealized setting.The present project will build on this work with a comprehensive theoretical and numerical study involving much more realistic settings. This requires the development of a purpose-built high-performance numerical model capable of simulating complicated forced-dissipative twodimensional turbulent flow in domains with variable topography. In addition to the direct relevance of the project to coastal oceanography and engineering, the present project will also provide improved understanding of the general nature of such flows, and whether they can be understood with the aid of currently developed methods based on statistical mechanics.
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Key Findings |
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This information can now be found on Gateway to Research (GtR) http://gtr.rcuk.ac.uk
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Potential use in non-academic contexts |
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This information can now be found on Gateway to Research (GtR) http://gtr.rcuk.ac.uk
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Impacts |
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| Description |
This information can now be found on Gateway to Research (GtR) http://gtr.rcuk.ac.uk |
| Summary |
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| Date Materialised |
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Sectors submitted by the Researcher |
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This information can now be found on Gateway to Research (GtR) http://gtr.rcuk.ac.uk
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| Project URL: |
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| Further Information: |
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| Organisation Website: |
http://www.st-and.ac.uk |